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All Your Biggest Skin-Care Concerns — Solved

(Last Updated On: November 30, 2017)

We all have a selected skincare situation we would like to repair. We’re not speaking about altering the best way we glance, however the best way our pores and skin behaves. An oily T-zone that appears extra like a mirror than a brow come lunchtime? We’ve been there. Chin scars left from a nasty bout of hormonal pimples? We perceive.

Skin generally is a very temperamental factor, topic to vary every time our surroundings, hormones, life-style, or the merchandise we use do. It can usually really feel like a relentless battle — like when a dry patch clears up just for blackheads to seem — which is why we went to the professionals to place our pores and skin considerations below the highlight.

Eight Refinery29 staffers, all with totally different pores and skin tones and kinds, requested eight consultants to assist resolve their points. Read on to seek out out what they suggested.

Problem: Hyper-Pigmentation

“I have hyper-pigmentation on either side of my face as a result of acne. I’ve had it for about 10 years, since breaking out in high school. I’ve tried so many things, from natural products to treatments like microdermabrasion and glycolic peels to light therapy — but nothing seems to help.” – Samantha Yu, Brand Director

Expert: Dr. Justine Hextall, dermatologist at The Harley Medical Group

“First assess the depth of the pigmentation to seek out the suitable remedies. It could also be that, though pimples irritation triggered the pigmentation, different elements are exacerbating the issue. Topical remedies equivalent to Kligman’s cream (with hydroquinone, hydrocortisone, and retinoid) could assist to cut back the pigmentation and ought to be used earlier than any lively remedies, equivalent to a peel. (The latter in itself may cause post-inflammatory pigmentation, so I all the time advise warning with any peels within the context of hyper-pigmentation.) After a course of Kligman’s cream, microneedling could assist. This can goal pigmentation and any doable pimples scarring. Finally, ongoing remedies to cut back recurrence would come with a excessive issue sunscreen, ideally with a bodily block equivalent to zinc oxide, and I counsel topical vitamin C. It blocks the manufacturing of melanin, and has antioxidant properties that shield in opposition to free radical harm from UV and air pollution that may trigger undesirable pores and skin pigmentation.”

Problem: Cystic Acne

“I’ve had hormonal cystic acne for least a year and a half now. I’ve tried everything and am currently using Differin and Acnecide which has sorted out the acne for the most part, but big pores, redness, hyperpigmentation, and inflammation are still a problem. I have pared back my skin-care routine and use various masks and peels to soothe and calm. My skin is extra-sensitive to sodium laurel sulphate, which can make me break out in painful whiteheads, and harsh acids like salicylic acid dry me out and don’t work. Help!” -Sadhbh O’Sullivan, Social Media Assistant

Expert: Dr. Sajjad Rajpar, dermatologist at Belgravia Dermatology

“The excellent news is that it sounds as if your lively is below management. You have redness and delicate pores and skin as a result of each the remedies you’re utilizing trigger irritation as a facet impact. It could also be time to chop down Acnecide to alternate nights and even to twice every week. It may be useful to introduce a light-weight non-comedogenic moisturizer that comprises vitamin B3 to assist restore the pores and skin barrier. These measures will enhance redness and sensitivity.

“There are different causes you could have redness too. When pimples spots resolve they’ll go away a localized space of redness which may final for a number of months. This is as a result of irritation in an pimples spot causes new blood vessels to type within the pores and skin. The redness might be fairly deep in shade and, happily, often lessens with time. Laser remedies or IPL might help scale back the extent of redness very successfully.”

Problem: Milia

“I’ve had milia round and below my eyes for round 10 years. I as soon as had them eliminated throughout a facial however they got here again. In the previous I’ve used exfoliating scrubs, however my pores and skin is simply too delicate. Now I exploit an in a single day exfoliator and typically they arrive away on their very own whereas I wash my face – however nothing I’ve tried has actually labored.” -Rose Lander, International Coordinator

Expert: Dr. Frances Prenna Jones, beauty physician

“It is essential to distinguish milia from fatty deposits below the pores and skin (they’ll usually look the identical), because the remedy of those is usually totally different. Milia are basically trapped calcified secretions below the pores and skin, which are sometimes brought about by utilizing too greasy a moisturizer and never utilizing glycolic acid merchandise, which slough away the highest useless layer of pores and skin cells. Paradoxically, if you happen to bodily scrub the realm although it would make them worse! So prevention is healthier than treatment: Use a product that comprises glycol. They have to be eliminated by an skilled skilled in any other case, as they’ll scar if you happen to try to take away them your self.”

Problem: Oily T-zone

“I undergo from pimples, which is generally hormonal, on my chin, and I’ve a really oily T-zone. I all the time take my make-up off earlier than mattress, double cleanse once I’ve worn make-up, and attempt to keep away from something with SLS, mineral oil, shea butter and sometimes keep on with fragrance-free cleansers. What else can I do?” -Louise Whitbread, Editorial Intern

Expert: Dr. Sarah Tonks, beauty doctor, facial surgeon, and dermatologist

“As somebody with oily pores and skin too, I understand how you are feeling. I’ve my sufferers use Skinceuticals Simply Clean, which is a cleanser containing exfoliating AHAs. If you put on make-up it’s additionally essential to tone, so I are likely to go along with Skinceuticals Equalizing Toner or Obagi C-Rx Exfoliating Day Lotion, each of which comprise witch hazel. Then for daytime I will use SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic which is nice for greasy pores and skin, then Alumier AHA Renewal Serum once more as a result of I prefer to layer these AHAs to exfoliate the pores and skin. Alumier Matticlear Solution is nice to absorb any extra oils. I then just like the Oxygenetix Oxygenating Foundation Acne Control SPF25 as a result of it would not clog my pores. At nighttime I’m going with the identical cleanser and toner adopted by a retinol, after which each different night time I will go along with the Skinceuticals Resveratrol B E.”

Problem: Sebaceous Filaments

“I hardly ever get spots, however within the final 18 months or so I observed these tiny, laborious gray bumps crammed with a drop-shaped beads. In the final month they’ve elevated. I get them on my chin and between my brows. I have never tried any merchandise on them, however I am obsessive about squeezing them out! How can I cease them or decelerate their look?” – Natasha Slee, Social Media Manager

Expert: Dr. Anita Sturnham, dermatologist and founding father of Nuriss Clinics

“Sebaceous filaments are sometimes under-diagnosed and mistaken for blackheads or whiteheads — however their traits are very totally different. A sebaceous filament is a tiny assortment of sebum (oil) and outdated useless pores and skin cells, which accumulate round a hair follicle. To goal the filaments, including in a mix alpha and beta hydroxy acid cleanser will assist, due to its double-action cleaning mechanism. The lactic and glycolic acid exfoliate and take away useless pores and skin cells, whereas the salicylic acid will seep into your pores, scale back micro organism, oil, and irritation. Start off by utilizing this at night time, which for my part ought to all the time be the extra intensive cleanse in your routine.

“Dehydration can trigger faster sebum production, increasing the rate of pore clogging. The key to preventing this is to ensure that you have adequate skin hydrators in your skin-care routine, and to avoid pore-clogging facial oils and comedogenic moisturizers. Morning and night serums with a high molecular weight hylauronic acid will be your skin savior. Adding in a retinoid (vitamin A) serum or night cream is also great, because the nutrient will reduce sebum, bacteria, inflammation, and improve cell turnover. There’s no need to blitz your skin with high doses of retinoids to address this skin concern, though — just 0.5-1% of a second or third generation retinoid works wonders, and I find products with additional hyaluronic acid in the formula help to counteract any dryness or irritation that one may see typically after using these types of products.”

Problem: Spots

“I get spots after having my eyebrows threaded. Is there any way to avoid this?” -Sarah Raphael, Editor-at-Large

Expert: Dr. Stefanie Williams, dermatologist and creator of Look Great, Not Done! The Art and Science of Ageing Well – How Aesthetic Treatments Can Work for You

“‘Breakouts’ after eyebrow threading are often certainly one of two issues – irritation or folliculitis. If you develop some minor redness and some tiny little ‘bumps’, this can be a easy irritant response. For delicate irritant reactions, a soothing aloe vera gel is likely to be all you want (wash your fingers earlier than making use of it!). I’d all the time advocate combining this with software of a non-irritant antiseptic equivalent to Clinisept+ Solution to keep away from bacterial contamination. If that doesn’t assist, a few days of a light steroid cream, greatest together with an antibacterial ingredient — like prescription Fucidin H cream out of your physician — is often very efficient.

“However, correct breakouts with acne-like spots or pimples might be bacterial folliculitis, which implies micro organism have entered the hair follicle throughout or shortly after the threading and are inflicting the ‘breakouts.’ To help prevent this, hygiene prior to and around the threading procedure is very important, so make sure you are visiting a reputable salon, your therapist doesn’t reuse thread, and works as cleanly as doable. Also, keep away from touching the realm along with your fingers for just a few hours after the threading. It’s additionally a good suggestion to dab a mild antiseptic resolution (like Clinisept+) onto the pores and skin earlier than and after the remedy. If regardless of all precautions you continue to develop folliculitis, you may want topical antibacterial remedy out of your physician, like prescription Dalacin T lotion or Fusidic acid cream.”

Problem: Red Marks/Scarring

“I have been affected by hormonal pimples for the previous yr, and though it is lastly clearing up (thanks, Differin!) I am left with purple marks and scars on my pores and skin the place the spots as soon as have been. What’s the simplest option to eliminate them? I frequently use acids in my skincare routine however I ponder if I ought to incorporate one thing else as effectively?” -Chemmie Squier, Branded Content Manager

Expert: Andrea Pfeffer, aesthetician and founding father of Pfeffer Sal

“When it involves decreasing pimples scarring, there are just a few avenues that you could take, but it surely’s essential to make sure that the lively pimples is completely cleared – so be affected person. This will make sure you don’t by chance irritate the breakouts while making an attempt to focus on present scarring. Skin peels will scale back the pigmentation dramatically by deeply exfoliating and resurfacing the pores and skin. Our peels [at Pfeffer Sal] are a collection of managed, lighter peels to realize efficient and protected outcomes. If there are any textural modifications, I like to recommend a course of medical needling. This needling works on the principal of managed trauma to the pores and skin to ensure that it to begin releasing progress elements, and places the great fibroblasts to work, resulting in the correct kind of collagen being produced, which is able to then be transformed, decreasing the looks of pitted scar.

“At home, incorporating exfoliating acids into your regimen is a great step toward reducing scarring. Another must is to wear SPF every single day. Sun protection will prevent the scarring from becoming further pigmented or sensitised. No excuses! Apply, apply, apply – even on the cloudiest of days!”

Problem: Combination Skin

“I really neglect my skin. I use micellar water and moisturizer in the evening and repeat that (lengthy) process again when I wake up. I am often quite oily yet dry on my nose, and have random patches of dry skin on my cheeks. Also, I have quite big pores and small pimples and would love to hear what I can do to exfoliate in a delicate way without using a harsh scrub.” -Meg O’Donnell, Photo Assistant

Expert: Abigail James, superstar facialist

“For a mix pores and skin, simply utilizing a micellar water and moisturizer shouldn’t be going to be sufficient, and might be contributing to small pimples on the face. It may trigger the pores and skin to sway from oily to dry. Using a micellar for a fast take away of make-up is okay however I’d counsel additionally utilizing a mild wash to correctly cleanse the pores and skin morning and night time. Starting the day with a mild cleanse permits your moisturizer and make-up to take a seat on a recent, clear base. This also needs to assist hold pores clear even when they’re barely massive. Nivea Daily Essentials Refreshing Face Wash Gel or Cosmedix Benefit Clean Gentle Cleanser are each good to start with.

Exfoliating with one thing light two to a few occasions every week may even assist. You might use a Clarisonic, or an AHA face masks, which might gently take away useless pores and skin cells whereas including some hydration to dry pores and skin. I’d advocate a vitamin C masks. To additional scale back massive pores, attempt a derma curler within the night as soon as every week as an extra step. That mentioned, I’d make the opposite modifications first, see how pores and skin responds over a two-month interval, after which look to progress.”

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